Women's chemises and blouses regional summary

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Banat  
Câmpia Banatului. Gold thread decorations on blouses
Banat, Bistra valley Blouse similar to Pădureni (tablă embroidery on sleeves)
Zona Făget, Banat Tablă embroidery only on sleeves until 1st decade of 20th century. Then altiţa appears above the tablă. Also in this period the cut of the cămaşă was adapted so it was gathered at the shoulders, and a lace frill was added at the neck made of pânza groasă de cinari.
Crişana  
Arad Around Sânicolaul Mare cămaşă cu platcă called chităarită (cut white work) is worn.
Maramureş, Oaş  
Codru White linen blouse decorated with white work, especially on shoulders and yoke.
Oaş Yoked cămaşă cu platcă
cămaşă cu platcă
heavily decorated with dark coloured embroidery on yoke and cuffs.
Maramureş Cămaşă cu umeraş with square neck, or yoked
North Transylvania  
Cluj & Apuseni & Lăpuş Sleeves with fodor
Cămaşă cu fodor
Blouse fastens at back and has gathered front which is embroidered along the selvage
South Transylvania  
Bran Cămaşă încreţită similar  to adjacent regions of  Muntenia
Făgăraş Married women - linen with black embroidery and whitework. Modern blouses for young girls have heavy black embroidery on sleeves (tablă) and front, Both had frill at cuffs.
Very old costumes have a very simple blouse sleeves gathered at wrist and little embroidery
Petroşani Sleeves have large frills at wrist called "fodori" & a horizontal Line of embroidery at elbow level (Şire Peste Cot)
Rimetea Hungarian blouses with embroidery in red on shoulder.
Mureş Blouses similar to Cluj & Apuseni, but cuipag is smaller
Haţeg  
Pădureni  
Munţii Apuseni  
Mărginimea Sibiului Gathered neck white cotton  blouse with sleeves gathered into the neck (Cămaşă cu mâneca din gât) and also just below the elbow then open out into a "flounce" (fodor).
Târnave Sleeve turned back at wrist
Oltenia Oltenia râuri - Diagonal or V shaped with vertical line down centre
Oltenia & Muntenia (throughout) Decorations with altiţa, increţ and râuri
Gorj  
Romanţi  
Vâlcea  
Zona Slatina, Olt  
Muntenia

Muntenia – râuri - Vertical wider bands

Argeş Sleeves turned up at wrist to show embroidery on wrong side.
Argeş  - Muşcel Older blouses use striped material.
Buzau Red woollen embroidery, straight râuri
Buzau - Râmnicu Sărat Red woollen embroidery, diagonal râuri, frills at wrists
Ilfov Plain white chemise, little decoration, in some cases gold or silver sequins (fluturi) attached.
Prahova Cămaşă încreţită with red and black decoration
Teleorman Pink / red /gold embroidery vertical râuri on sleeves and vertical lines of embroidery on front of blouse, decoration with gold or silver sequins (fluturi)
Vlaşca Gold or silver sequins (fluturi) were used for decoration
Dobrogea Simple yoked blouse (cămaşă cu umeraş), thin material, open sleeves, lines of delicate embroidery, older version has less embroidery.
Moldavia  - North  
Suceava  
Rădăuăţi Blouse made of thin flax, hemp or cotton, gathered round neck on cord. Sleeve decoration is made up of - altiţa - shoulder piece, încreţ - small monochrome ornamental band, râuri - embroidery down sleeve - diagonal on this case,
Vatra Dornei, Suceava  
Câmpulung Moldovenesc Colour scheme of decoration brighter and more rich than rest of Bucovina
Valea Bistriţei.  
Moldavia - Central & South  
Gyimes  
Iaşi Older style simple cut blouses worn with ghiordan
Vasului  
Neamţ  
Gyimes Embroidered shirt with laced wide cuffs, held in at elbow. Diamond patterns are embroidered on back.
Vrancea Older style blouse has twisted sleeves, which are rolled up so râuri look like spirals, newer style had gold, black and coloured embroidery, square geometric motifs. More recent shirt have gathered neck cămaşă încreţită
cămaşă încreţită
made of white linen, with yellow woven stripes. It is gathered round the neck and decorated with large black embroidered motifs.
Moldavian Csango Women’s shirts are usually embroidered in red (or black) with blue band between horizontal band on upper arms and diagonal strips on sleeves. Shoulders and sleeves are embroidered first and sewn together after. Thick (woollen) embroidery. No cuffs, sleeves gathered in with string at wrist
Central Moldavia, Bacău, Romanului, Colinele Tutovei.  

Bulgaria

Type 1 – gathered chemises - Burchena, riza, burchanka - found in West and along banks of Danube. 3 types - those found in NW, Central North and along Danube in NE. Both types found with same apron combinations.

2 principal variant of burchanka chemise worn in N Bulgaria, both types are gathered round the neck and at the ends of the sleeves and have patches on the shoulders.

North West Shoulder patches are shape of isosceles triangle; Most beautiful chemises have slit at side front and have an inset in front.
Iskar Gorge and valley of river Vit Variant of this chemise from Iskar Gorge and valley of river Vit is called an oplechka. His has side opening and 2 gussets on breast decorated with rich embroidery
Vratsa 19thC Vratsa district burchanyanka chemise – made of hempen material, embroidered in woollen and spun yarns in dark wine, olive green and blue. Stem stitch and cross stitch are used.
East Type 2 - Plain tunic style - found to east, division along middle reaches of Yantra River. Worn with same combination of apron styles.
North East Called altitsa and worn along banks of Danube and in NE Bulgaria
Popovo, Razgrad, and Provaida. Tunic shaped chemises with narrow collar and wide sleeves is only worn in certain villages of NE Bulgaria near towns of Popovo, Razgrad, and Provaida.

References

© Eliznik2005, First issue 2002, Last updated Aug-05