Romanian costume - Foorwear summary

Banat	Smocking stitch called Creţuri bănăţene made with a similar technique to Punct Bănăţean/ Nemţoanele
Câmpia Banatului
Crişana
Bihor	Local names for decorative smocking is “brăţăriu pe gros”
Maramureş, Oaş,
Maramureş	Narrow gathered shoulders of womens cămăşi and ciupag are decorated with creţuri de Maramureş which is unique in that it is worked on drawn threads. Groups of 4- 5 warp threads are pulled out, leaving groups of 4-5 threads between these rows, totalling between 4-8 rows. Then “înaintea acului” stitch is worked over the drawn threads in 2 parallel rows. Stitches used called măruntă, ochiuţi, and rupturiţi. These are worked in linen thread or yellow cotton. Older style cămăşi have a narrow row of fabric c 1cm wide at the neck which is decorated with tiny motifs, either geometric of stylised flowers in polychrome colours. The stitches are called tras or trăsură Cuffs are gathered and narrow bands of geometric embroidery, 1- 2cm wide are worked over the gathers, similar to alesături in black, pink, yellow coloured thread. The sleeve then can open out into a flounce (bezer) which is decorated with cut white work called ciur împiedicat.
Oaş	Creţuri oşeneşti - The cloth is gathered and decorative motifs in the form of rhomboids are worked across the gathers.
Transylvania	Straight stitch (Tighel) called 'ociţi.
Pădureni	Cross stitch crucea called “şinoreşte în cruci drepte”
Bran	Beteală is used for decoration on cămăşi
NW Transylvania	Şabac introduced recently Men's cămăşi have narrow gathered shoulders
Zones of Mărginenii Haţegului, Valea Jiului.	Cross stitch crucea called “şinoreşte în cruci drepte”
Făgăraş	Creţuri de Făgăraş is used on shirt sleeves and has a honeycomb (fagure) appearance. It is made by creasing the cloth, and decorating the creases with 4-8 rows of “înaintea acului” stitches. bright embroidery in vivid colours with predominantly red hues in Făgăraş.
Zona Târnavelor,	Local names for decorative smocking is “trăsureşte pe creţuri”
Zona Apuseni, Cluj, Mureş	The neck of women's cămăşi is gathered into a ciupag, and blouse has wide sleeves gathered at the wrists into brataras (“bracelets”) or larger flounces (fodrăs) . The smocking on the ciupag has a variation of the scallop using the iras stitch with meshes in both the upper and lower part of the seam. This is also seen on blouses worn by Hungarians in Cluj country (Hungarian Kalotaszeg) . Cross stitch crucea is called “brâneşte” in Apuseni Mts.
Câmpia Transilvania	Local names for decorative smocking is “lucet”
Sibiu	The neck of women's cămăşi is gathered into a narrower variant of a ciupag around Sibiu. Embroidery is in white alternating with black and slight polychrome spots in Marginemea Sibiului. Punctul 'Ciocănele' is found only in Sibiu, and is used for decorating iei (blouses) . It is worked in thick black thread using 'cusătura peste fire', sewing over the threads. It gives the appearance of vertical bands of black braid on the sleeves and front of the blouse.
Sibiu, Avrig zone	Bright embroidery in vivid colours with predominantly red hues in geometric & floral motifs.
Saxon	Smocking using a geometric pattern is used in certain districts of Banat and Transylvania for gathering material into collars and cuffs. This technique may have been introduced by Saxons.
Oltenia	Fluteri or paiete silver or gold sequins used on cămăşi, catrinţe, or vâlnice, from the 19th century. Punct bătrânesc oltenesc can be worked horizontally, vertically or oblique, with the final appearance being 'in relief'. Cross stitch crucea called “şinoreşte în cruci drepte” in zones of Olt, Gorj, Vâlcea. Fine braid (Bucmea) made in special workshops, is sewn on 3 sides of some catrinţe
Dolj	Beteală is used for decoration on cămăşi
Gorj	Creţuri gorjeneşti is worked in vertical stitches similar to that used for shirts in Făgăraş. Schileresc costume worn by men in wealthy villages from the end of the 19th and early 20th century comprises trousers (nădragi), sleeveless jackets (vestă) and coats (mintean) which are decorated with rows of black braid forming special motifs called floricele, ghearele, popcii, floarea, and călăraşilor.
Mehedinti	Beteală is used for decoration on cămăşi
Muntenia	Straight stitch (tighel) called 'piezuri' Fluteri or paiete silver or gold sequins used on cămăşi, veste or fote from the 19th century.
Argeş	Beteală is used for decoration on cămăşi
Muscel	The local name for punct bătrânesc is punct gras It has both a horizontal and vertical variants. Beteală is used for decoration on cămăşi.
Prahova	Beteală is used for decoration on cămăşi
Moldavia	Straight stitch (Tighel) called 'chiezuri'. Regional name for decorative smocking is 'lăncez' Fluteri or paiete silver or gold sequins used on cămăşi, veste or fote from the 19th century. Punct bătrânesc moldovenesc gives the appearance of joined squares.
Moldavia - North
Bucovina	Embroidery on încreţ is in white combined with other colours and small beads are sewn onto this.
Moldavia - Central and South
Buzău, Râmnicu Sărat, Vrancea, Bacău, and Neamţ	Sabac is used to decorate men's and women’s cămăşe.
Ţara Vrancea	Şabac is often used for decoration on ştergar de cap, made of cotton or silk. Beteală is used for decoration on cămăşi
Dobrogea	Fluteri or paiete silver or gold sequins used on cămăşi, catrinţe, from the 19th century.
Câmpia Dunării	Şabac is often used for decoration on ştergar de cap, made of cotton or silk. Beteală is used for decoration on cămăşi
Surrounding Countries	Northern Bulgaria - 'Burchanka' style chemises from around Pleven, have smocked front panel, similar to the ciupag found in north and central Transylvania.

Regional embroidery decoration - summary table

References