Fabric overcoats and waistcoats summary

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Fabric overcoats

Banat Thick fulled coat may be green, grey, blue coats, and were decorated with multicoloured  ornaments.  
Lugoj, Timiş Dark woollen suman with dark embroidery.
Câmpia Banatului Richly ornamented Şuba or Duruţ which are made of dimie similar to those worn in Câmpie Dunării. Older coats were in white colour, butmore recently green or blue cloth was used. Duruţ overcoats have gussets, a large square collar, wide sleeves, and are decorated with black braid on the large collar which occupies a third part of the upper back, on cuffs, on front and on middle of back.
Caransebeş

Suman made of white woollen cloth decorated with black braid and embroideries on the front edges, cuffs and pockets.
Crişana  
Bihor, Arad, Zărand, and Apuseni Mts. Fabric overcoats (sumane)
Suman
worn by men & women are usually made of white woollen fabric, and can have wide gussets, and are decorated with red, blue and green cloth with silk embroidery and motifs in coloured cord.
Aleşd, Crişul Repede, Bihor Black sumane.
Maramureş, Oaş,  
North Transylvania  
Năsăud Blue cloth coat, decorated with velvet, cord and silver clasps, or plain black, brown or grey sumane.  Colour can be mark of social standing - black sumane worn by border guard peasants.
Apuseni Mts.

Ţundre Knee length coat with wide sleeves made of white pănură (dimie) cloth worn by men and women, or grey with coloured tassels. Ţundră in postav made from 19thC has decoration in coloured thick cloth in red and black, appliquéd on the edges of the gussets and the sleeves.

Csik In winter men wore a type of coat with a red collar, or the poor wore a long coat of brown cloth.
South Transylvania  
Haţeg White cloth suman with narrow ornaments on edges and collar.
Haţeg and Petroşani. Şuba înfundată cut in a frock form with gussets in front, appears only in Haţeg and Petroşani.
Pădureni Şuba, overcoat of white woollen cloth, ornaments on edge in cord or cloth.
Hunedoara White woven coats worn which resemble Moldavian coats in shape.
Fagaraş Recălele (long aba coats).
Zona Târnavelor Zeghe - worn by men and women. These are cut of 9 pieces of pănură (dimie) in white, brown or black, and have lateral gussets and wide sleeves. They are worn on shoulders with sleeves to the back.
Ţara Oltului

Recăl, worn, both by men and women. 2 types: Recăl hoizănesc, worn in Avrig, Sibiu, waist length made of grey or black cloth (pănură) without collar. It is worn on shoulders without putting on the arms. Recăl românesc worn by women was long and made of black cloth (pănură, lined with coloured cloth (pânză) and bordered with black velvet. Mens' version was shorter, buttoned up at the front, with pockets and buttons, with a collar of lamb’s fur. On the lining of front and on lapels, are appliquéd pieces of red cloth approx. 10cm wide.
Oltenia Dimie were white, and decorated with braiding and subtle coloured decoration.
Gorj

Waist length coat in white woollen cloth with black braiding.
Olt Giubea sleeveless hip length coat of homespun white woollen cloth decorated with red braid.

Red greatcoat and trousers worn by coach drivers (surugii).

Short cojoc - Hip length sheepskin coat decorated in rosettes & spirals as in Romanaţi.

Long sleeved calf length white woollen cloth coat decorated in light black embroidery.

Romanaţi Cojoc - long sleeved, skirted hip length white woollen cloth coat, decorated with red, black & green spirals or black woollen coat (cojoc), decorated with rosettes and spirals in red & green.

Giubea - long sleeveless white cloth coat, decorated on front worn by men & women.

Epingle - long mans coat with hood of Romanţi.

Vâlcea Şuba
Şuba
- Long coats in dimie, cut in straight pieces with added gussets, and a narrow collar. In south of zone şuba are woven in cotton. Şuba are decorated with appliquéd black braid and embroidery.
Muntenia

Dimie are white, grey or brown and are decorated with black braid. Thick fulled coat may be red.
Câmpia Munteniei, Olteniei and in Dobrogea, Ipingea - Long coat made of dimie sometimes with hood worn in Câmpia Munteniei, Olteniei and in Dobrogea, decorated with braid. This appears frequently in commemorative pictures of peasants in Oltenia 18th to 19th century in Câmpofeni, Schela, Şomăneşti (Gorj), Horezu (Vâlcea) etc. This shows oriental influence from 17th to 19th century (Ottoman) originally used at court and later in countryside.
Ialomiţa, Ilfov, Teleorman

Imurlac - Long coat in coloured dimie worn decorated with braid and multicoloured cloth. In NW part of the zone imurlac has more sober decoration. In villages situated north of Iacul Snagov, it was covered with ornamental motifs in thin braid in red, yellow, green, blue and white and metal buttons, and with a large multicoloured tassel top of hood.
Ţara Loviştei Zeghe – dark.
Vlaşca, Imurlucuri (found here and Dobrogea).
Dobrogea  Imurlucuri  -Ghebă / mantă, coat worn over waistcoat with large gussets and tied with a belt.

Epingea or imurlac found near Danube –names show Oriental, Turko-Balkan origin. These coats are richly decorated and can be seen in 1st half of 19th century prints of surugius – mail coach drivers.
Moldavia Thick fulled black, brown or grey braided coats, sometimes with hoods and wide gussets, 3 categories of sumane worn according to the season.
  1. Suman scurt “sumăiaş” or “sumănică” worn in autumn or spring,
  2. Ghenucher worn later in autumn
  3. Suman lung – worn in winter over a short cojoc or minteanul.
Moldavia - North  
Rădăuţi Suman
Suman
from Bucovina coats (made in Rădăuţi co-op) were brown, black or grey and decorated with black, brown or grey woollen braid, on the edges of the front, collar and pockets. In some cases have a wide collar that can be turned into a hood.
Moldavia - Central & South  
Roman Sumane made of white cloth decorated with black cording.
Central Moldavia Sumane made of silver-coloured (greyish) wool.
Surrounding Countries  
Ukraine Mens and women’s coats widespread especially in West, made of white fulled wool, knee length, open in front and slightly flared of 3 types:

  1. Kusak, gloukhche, klasnik - Sleeveless with appliqué work and linear embroidery on both sides of back.
  2. Dolaktanka - elbow length sleeves ending in appliqué broadcloth stripes in different colours.
  3. Golyama dreha - large coat, only edges trimmed.

Decoration on mens coats centred on upper part of front, often in trapezoid forms outlined by braiding or filled with embroidered linear geometric ornaments.

Cloth waistcoats

Banat  
Lugoj, Banat Cloth vest called a Chintuş decorated with black braid is worn by men.
Ţara Oaşului and Maramureş Waistcoats are crocheted in multicoloured wool.

Transylvania  
Sibiu

Men – Black fabric waistcoat (laibăr) worn since 19th C.

Women – black wollen cloth or velvet waistcoats (ilic) worn since later 19th C.

Pădureni Men wear white woollen fabric vest called laibăr, decorated on edge with rows of cord or cloth, which show the age of the man!.
Oltenia  
Gorj Ilic – waistcoat made from white woollen cloth with black braiding.
Dobrogea Dark double breasted coloured waistcoat as called guibea, decorated with black braid.
Moldavia - Vrancea Women - Black woollen cloth or velvet waistcoat (ilic)

Men - Black fabric waistcoat (laibăr)

Surrounding Countries  
Ukraine Zubun - sleeveless waistcoat.

References

© Eliznik2005, First issue 2002, Last updated March-07