Bulgarian felted woollen overcoats, jackets and waistcoats

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Garments worn with belodreshnik costume

Over garments made of white felted woollen material were worn with the belodreshnik and double aprons costumes in the north, with the shape and decoration of the garments worn by men and women being similar. These garments included long sleeveless flared waistcoats (kusak, gloukhche, klasnik), waist length flared waistcoats, short sleeved waist length flared jackets (dolaktanka),  long sleeved waist or hip length jackets (dolama, aba, gluhche, kussache, doramche, dolaktanka, dolama, mintan), or knee length (kaplama) or full length long sleeved overcoats (golyama dreha).

The styles of over garments changed from the second half of the 19th century as result of urban fashions and the production of clothing in craft workshops. Sleeveless or short sleeved white woollen outer garments, trimmed on edges with coloured thread and embroidery down front opening were widespread in past. These were replaced by black hooded cloaks (klashnitsi or djubeta) for urban wear in towns.

Long sleeveless flared waistcoats - Kusak, Gloukhche, Klasnik

Long sleeveless flared woollen waistcoats were found in the north west and Pleven regions. These were knee or hip length open in front and flared below the waist. They were decorated with coloured, usually red braid around the edges and appliqué work in red, yellow, blue and green around the pockets, and tops of the gussets.

Short sleeveless hip length outer garments which could be either straight or with gussets at sides and richly decorated, were worn with soukman costume in (Smolyan, and the Toundja valley).

Waist length flared waistcoats and jackets - Dolaktanka

Men’s waist length jackets could have short sleeves or were sleeveless. These were decorated in similar style to the longer flared waistcoats but had additional decoration on the upper part of front, often in trapezoid shapes which were outlined with braid and filled with embroidered linear geometric motifs. Around Nikopol and Turnovo black woollen flared waist length coats and waistcoats decorated with blue braiding and red, blue and white embroidery are worn by in men and women. The cut of these garments is the same as the white over garments worn further west.

Long sleeved waist or hip length jackets - Dolama, Aba, Gluhche, Kussache, Doramche, Dolaktanka, Dolama, Mintan

The over garment worn by women with  soukman and saya costumes were similar. Those worn with soukman were called mente, kicha, gunche, kusse, saltamarka, whilst those worn with saya were called saltamarka, kontoshche. Around Smolyan a waist length long sleeved jacket made of dark woollen material is worn, saltamarki (doublets), kontoshi (fur coats). This is edged with brown fur, and decorated with silver braid around the cuffs.  

Full length long sleeved overcoat - Kaplama or Golyama dreha.

Long sleeved overcoats could be knee length called kaplama or longer and called Golyama dreha. These often had little decoration with only a row of coloured braid sewn round the front edges and hem. Kaplama worn by men in the north for weddings men were worn with belts crossing over his chest in front.

Garments worn by men with chernodreshnik

Long or short sleeved coats (dolatnik aba, or anteriya) and sleeveless waistcoats (lek or elek), worn by men with chernodresnik were made of the same fulled dark woollen cloth as the potouri, and are also made by tailors in urban workshops. These outer garments are waist length, open at the front, and are fitted into the waist, with the styles being strongly influenced by Ottoman fashions. They are decorated with dark coloured woollen braid (gaitan) along the seams, front opening and pocket edges. In some areas the braid is supplemented with embroidery in black silk or cotton thread and appliquéd pieces of red woollen cloth. The sleeveless waistcoats have a round neck and button up down the front. Around Haskovo, Smolyan, and Stara Zagora, men’s long sleeved coats are longer, open in front, and were cut in at waist with a slight flare below the waist. This style of coats sometimes has a leather lining.

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